Jaye Padgett travelled to Russia at the end of the summer to conduct some research at St. Petersburg State University. He lived to tell the tale, and this is his report:
In September I spent about 10 days in St. Petersburg, Russia. I was there to run a perceptual experiment on Russian listeners. (The experiment explores the perceptual similarities among sounds that commonly form the input and output of palatalizing mutations, like the kind you get in English “got you” → “gotcha”.) The people of the Phonetics Department of St. Petersburg State University were kind enough, at the beginning of their academic year, to make a room available to me and to supply me with a continual stream of bemused undergraduates—24 in all. St. Petersburg is called the “Venice of the north”, at least by Russians, and in fact it is spectacular. The university is right on the Neva river embankment, across the river and down a bit from the Winter Palace. The city center is an architectural candy store—baroque, neoclassical, art nouveau—and is laced by canals.
Instead of a hotel I booked lodgings through a service that lands you in somebody’s apartment. There I was fed lots of soup by the obligatory babushka who said babushka things like ‘Russian ice cream is the best’ and ‘I read that milk in tea destroys the health effects of tea; those British have really gotten it wrong.’ On my last night there the department’s chair Pavel Skrelin took me to a Georgian restaurant and tried to kill me with vodka.